Askham, Cumbria: Day 2

Up early this morning to water the tomatoes in the greenhouse and the pots and the veg in the plot at the top of the garden.   Unfortunately the hose did not like me and kept separating from the hose reel and pouring water everywhere and also over me.  I managed to give the tomatoes water from a can and then retreated, turned the tap off and waited for my trusty assistant to get out of bed!  By the time we had had breakfast and were dressed the sun was up, so we delayed watering until the evening.

Kirkstone Pass

Our destination for our first full day was Brantwood, at one time the home of John Ruskin, overlooking Conniston Water.   We set off from Askham along tiny winding lanes, frequently having to back up for tractors and other farm vehicles.  I was having kitens and making a fuss about the danger of blind corners etc., Peter stoically ignoring me.  We also took the Kirkstone Pass - dramatic and steep!  We arrived in Ambleside in need of a coffee so we parked and wandered, found a coffee shop and unwound for a while with the newspaper.

Then on to Brantwood and, first stop, lunch in the cafe.   Which was good.  We had a view over Conniston Water and the sun was shining. 

Conniston Water

After lunch we went up and bought tickets for the house and watched the introductory film show.  We had heard of John Ruskin and associated him with the pre-Raphaelites, but were a little hazy about his other interests and accomplishments, until the film filled in the gaps.  We approached the house with more understanding.   It was a wonderful museum filled with interest - and also with Japanese pottery and pictures by Turner, two temporary exhibitions.

Brantwood

Brantwood

Inside Brantwood

I was intrigued by the glazing on the side plates in the dining room. (See below)

Interesting glaze pattern

Garden path

Outside and around the house was a large garden and we explored some parts.   Then it was back to Penrith to go to the supermarket to buy some extras for supper and some breakfast cereal etc.

We had a little trouble finding our way on occassions, but arrived at the ferry across Windermere which was a first for us.  Then we missed a turning or two but eventually hit the M6 and hurried up to Penrith, shopped, got back to the house, had a cup of tea, fixed the hose, watered the plants, had a glass of wine, made supper and caught up on Wimbledon!  Well, I watched TV and Peter did the crossword! 

Apart from the roads, which were a little too exciting for me at times, it was a very good day out!   Brantwood was certainly worth the effort. 

Askham, Cumbria: Day 1

We are again swapping houses with our friends Helen and Joe.  This will be our third stay in their whitewashed 'cottage' in Askham, Cumbria and their first visit to our house in Southwold.

We went down to Southwold to get the house ready.  Helen and Joe arrived at about 4.00 and after the obligatory cup of tea, showed them the delights of the high street.   They were very excited by some of the shops, particularly CraftCo, the artist's collective, the cheese shop and the hardware store!   Askham, where they live, has one  village store, so the idea of strolling out of their front door and finding interesting shops at their fingertips seemed great.    We had a meal together at the Crown (a little disappointing as all of us found our main course very salty).

Clumber Park Walled Garden

In the morning we left Southwold early and went  back home to load the car with all the things we had packed and left in the hall.   We set off just after 9.30 am and drove via the A47, the A17, the A1 and the A66 to Askham, just south of Penrith.  We had a great lunch stop at Clumber Park (Helen and Joe's excellent recommendation)  and were sorry that we only had time to eat and make the briefest of visits to the walled garden.

We arrived at Askham and settled in.  Their house is very comfortable, full of books and beautiful pottery and the garden is lovely.  We enjoy coming here. 

Joe and Helen's house in Askham

Amsterdam Day 3

Up again in good time to walk again to the museum plein and the Van Gogh museum.  The David Hockney and Van Gogh exhibition was an eye opener.  I appreciated the Hockney’s much more after seeing the two side by side and seeing an excellent short film and hearing a very good lecture.  Quite a morning!

We went next door to state art museum for lunch in the cafe  - avocado salad for me and cheese toastie for Peter.  We couldn’t quite face another gallery so we looked round the bookshop and then wandered back to the flat.

We had an early booking at the du Behamel restaurant so the restaurant was empty when we arrived but very soon filled up.  The same art nouveau decor, very good service and an excellent meal.

Went to bed around midnight and regretted the espressos we had to finish the meal.  I was woken at 3.30am by talking, probably from the flat next door and above us.  It was particularly loud in the bathroom which has a big ceiling light in it.  I shut the bathroom door and that helped a bit but I lay furiously awake and heard them leave at 5.30am with more loud talking and door slamming!  Grr! My Fitbit tells me I had 3.45 hours sleep.  Peter was oblivious!

Amsterdam Day 2

We got up in good time to walk to the Rijksmuseum in time for our entry to the Rembrandt

Two beggars 

exhibition and a coffee before hand in the elegant cafe.  The exhibition was very crowded and so many people had phones and cameras out snapping everything in sight that you had to watch out for people barging into you or poking a phone in your eye!  However the etchings were wonderful and a real treat.   I restricted myself to one picture and one to amuse Abe and Saul of Peter and playmobil people.

We ran into football supporters on our way back but they were very good natured, despite carrying large quantities of beer.

We walked back along Prinsengracht and found a North African restaurant we remembered from a previous visit and had a bowl each of cous cous with three vegetable sides followed by mint tea.  Delicious!  Then back to the apartment for a siesta/rest and a cup of tea in the garden before the arduous task of choosing a restaurant.

We walked from the flat to Brouwersgracht to find the restaurant that went down in family history as the location of one of Simon’s best jokes.  We were there with Ros and Brian and Rupert and Simon. We can’t remember where Eliot was! And we can’t remember the punchline! Anyway, the restaurant was De Behamel and it was still there.  Sadly they had no tables so we booked for Friday night and went instead to a busy and friendly Italian.

Tourists posing with football fans!

Peter 

Amsterdam Day 1

Here we are again on a short city break.  This time in Amsterdam for 4 nights.  Our Airbnb apartment is on Leliegracht , an attractive street near the centre.  The apartment is at the back of the building and has its own garden, which is a great plus as the sun is shining.

We arrived before the lady who was letting us in, so we had lunch in a vegan restaurant two doors away and fell into conversation with an American couple who complained how hard it is to be vegan in the states - and gluten free! We commiserated - half heartedly!

Then our host came and showed us round the apartment.  First job after unpacking was to head for the supermarket for basic breakfast supplies and a wander round the neighbourhood.  We also bought a new map and a bottle of wine, another basic supply!

sitting room

Garden 

Sitting room

In the evening we ate on our way to the Concertgebouw at a steak restaurant called Venus and Adonis, served by two delightful staff.  We had to run the gauntlet of policemen and mounted police preparing for a huge turnout to celebrate the winners of the Dutch football tournament.  The open space outside the concert hall was filled with toilets and pissoirs. Never seen so many!

The concert was a recital by a trio with a mixed programme some parts of which was more enjoyable than others.   We had excellent seats in the front row of the balcony. 

We took the tram home and had some difficulty in paying for the tickets and knowing where to get off. The vegan Americans were also on the tram!

I had a bad night as I was too cold and had to resort to putting the light on to find a blanket and fiddle with the heating. 

Halesworth, Suffolk

Not quite Cadiz - no sign of a tapas bar - but an alternative outing from Southwold where we retired to console ourselves for the lack of a short break in the sun.   No sun in Southwold though, just high winds and rain at regular intervals.   Hence the outing to Halesworth, which we decided, when we got there, we had never been to before.

Plenty of eating places, a smattering of interesting shops, a large church in need of repair, a pedestrianised high road and many interesting and attractive buildings.

We stopped at Focus Organics for coffee and a browse round their well stocked foodie shelves and alternative therapies.   Then on round the town and up to the church which was announcing a free concert at 12.30 with the possibility of buying a picnic lunch from 12.00.  We thought we'd give it a try and filled in the time before 12.00 with a tour of an antique shop.  The lunch on offer was home made sandwiches, sausage rolls and cake.  We had sandwiches (excellently fresh), a sausage roll each (warm) and two teas.   The concert started at 12.30.  Baroque music played by an enthusiastic but amateur group.  Proceeds of the retiring collection going to repair and adapt the church for more community use.  They have grand plans to which we made a contribution.   The experience was very enjoyable, even if the playing wasn't always great. 

Interesting carved shop front.  Menu looked good too!

High street

Coffee stop

Off to browse

Tuning up

Market Square

The church

Off to Cadiz....and back again in one day!

Doing the crossword in the airport lounge...

Today started at 4.00am.

Still jet lagged from Tokyo we struggled into a taxi first thing this morning and set off for the airport in Norwich to catch the 6.15am flight.   It didn't go until about 7.30 which meant that we missed our flight to Madrid!   We went to the lounge and got into a 2hr long queue (yes, TWO HOURS!) to talk to an assistant about re-booking.   High winds had caused disruption at Amsterdam and a great many people had their plans disrupted.   There were no seats on any flight to Madrid until the following afternoon and that would mean that we had to stay the night in Amsterdam and then stay another night in Madrid as we would miss the last train from Madrid to Cadiz!    A chapter of accidents.

After much research by laptop and discussion we decided to abandon the trip entirely and have standby tickets to return to Norwich on the afternoon flight and are booked on to the evening flight if that doesn't work.   Amazingly it looks as though they will be able to prevent our luggage going to Madrid and it may arrive back in Norwich before us!

Fortunately, our host in Cadiz has accepted a rebooking, so now we are going in September!   Perhaps we will be luckier! 😎😎